July 26, 2011 -- Arrival in Kupang

July 26, 2011 -- Arrival in Kupang

Quantum Leap was already into the pass when I came up for my 6am watch. It was still dark, with Orion overhead, and a quarter moon rising in the east. The fishing traffic we'd so worried about never materialized, but all the eight or so rally boats that had seemed so spread out around us at sea began funneling together through the pass, packing the AIS display was with "dangerous targets", even though we had reduced the danger zone to barely a mile!

Dawn came up rosy and revealed islands to either side and ahead as we made the right turn up into the straight leading to Kupang. The wind freshened in the pass, then died, then kicked into high gear as we approached the open roadstead off the small city of Kupang. This would be a good place to have a wind generator. It is also a good place to have a catamaran. A little hobby-horsing, but no roll.

At 11:00 am -- no, wait, at 9:30am local time -- there are about eighteen rally boats anchored or anchoring with their red-over-white Indonesian flags and yellow quarantine flags flying. Our anchor went down at about 9am local time, and to see where we are on Google Earth, zoom in to S 10*09'39.4'; E 123*34'114.6". You will see the city of Kupang, on the island of Timor, in the region called Nusa Tengarra. We are just a little west of the main landing beach, anchored in about 25 feet of water. We spaced ourselves as politely as possible, knowing fully well that by the end of the day there will likely be at least one or two boats squeezed into the gaps we left.

We are all showered, shaved, coiffed etc, in our matching Sail Indonesia shirts, and we ladies are wearing s...s...skirts! Indonesia is a conservative country, and officialdom in particular appreciates gestures of respect.

.....

It is now several hours later by Indonesia rubber time, and things are starting to wilt. We gave up and put together lunch, figuring that for sure would bring the officials in, but, no, even that strategy didn't do it. Clearly they are not taking boats in the order of arrival. Evidently, the boat with the biggest yellow Q-flag wins, and we aren't they!

During lunch, with Bruce Springsteen crooning about America on the stereo, our first Muslim call to prayer came over the loudspeakers. No, those aren't all cell towers! Timor actually is predominantly Christian...but not completely. Actually the call was more melodic than I expected. It should not be too hard to get accustomed.

Meanwhile, everybody has given up and gone down for a nap, except for Don is on "officials watch." Given that he has nodded off over his book, I'm not sure the system will work as planned! It was a short sleeping night last night!