Sunday, October 9, 2011

October 5-10, 2011 - Singapore

Amazing how you can cross a strait, just a broad boulevard of water, and be in such a different place! Goodbye Indonesia; Singapore is ASIA, and this is Don's and my first experience of it. But it isn't just Asia, it is a unique crossroads of cultures, AND at the same time, a unique example of social engineering.

Singapore is an island city-state. It was gathered into the British empire by Thomas Stafford Raffles in the 1820s, who recognized the unique potential the island could play in world shipping based on its location on the crossroads of trade between the West and Asia. His foresight has been proven to the nth degree!

Singapore was occupied by Japan during WWII and it was another location of horrible wartime atrocities. It returned to British Rule after the war, but gained independence in 1959. Since then it has been governed by the People's Action Party. Lee Kuan Yew became its Secretary General and steered the city-state with a firm hand for thirty years into the clean, efficient successful industrialized power it is.

Most people have heard of Singapore's uptight mentality with respect to public behaviors: i.e. the infamous illegality of chewing gum, tight rein on litter, etc. The firm hand continues to be evident in strict port regulations, social management messages on trains and busses, wall posters, and heavy penalties for violations. Don and I walked through an pedestrian underpass in a park. On one side a sign asked politely that bikers dismount and walk through; on the other side it announced a $1000 fine for infringement!

The people, however, do not seemed at all cowed, just well behaved! The people on the very efficient subway system are all dressed a la mode Western style (mostly). We're back in a land where short short and camisole tops are OK, but there are no gansta pants nor sloppiness. The median age is in the mid-30s, and that's what you see out and about, and it seems like every one of them is engaged with their smartphone or Ipod!

In 2009, 74.2% of the 5.1 million residents were of Chinese, 13.4% of Malay, and 9.2% of Indian descent! Plus there are plenty of Western ex-pats working in corporate jobs and loving the international life. Official languages are English, Mandarin, and Malay, which makes it pretty easy for us to get around.

Housing is almost entirely high-rise complexes, planted in clusters on well-tended green areas with recreational areas with tennis or basketball available. It is the projects architectural scheme to the nth degree, and apparently done successfully.

Parks are liberally distributed throughout, and "town centers" appear to be the huge malls that are merged with transport hubs. You simply can't imagine the throng of eating that goes on in these multi-level malls, and all the stores appear packed. We suspect that most families eat most of their meals out!

Car ownership is discouraged, (the days you can use your vehicle determined by the color of your license plate! And we see signs "advising" Singapore drivers to top fuel up to 3/4 before crossing the bridge to Malaysia (where fuel is cheaper) and we understand you can be fined if caught exiting with less!) As a result, the highways have relatively light traffic, mostly busses and taxis, and definitely not the throng of motorbikes we saw in Indonesia. The roadways seem to all be thickly landscaped; even bridges and parking garages have integrated planters that overflow with greenery.

Instead, people use the subway and bus networks, which are quiet, well lit, and safe, and crowd control is a joy to flow along with. Plus companies provide shuttle service for employees to transport nodes.

Don and I have used the public transportation a lot. Tourism-wise we have visited the Asian Civilizations Museum (where we saw the Terracotta Army exhibit there -- So, cool!).
From Asians Civilizations Museum -2011-10-06
We've walked around the downtown area goggling at the unusual architecture and impressive skylines.

We had a great meal in vibrant Little India with old friends Jerry and Kathy of PoOino https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4goJ3VBI0EuIW1xIql6whRwvqGosZTWbczVc65BJt80?feat=directlinkRoa who ventured into the city from their marina across the marina in Malyasia followed up by a quick look-see at Chinatown.

From Singapore Botanical Gardens


We took an afternoon to the beautiful Botanical Gardens (click on link to see flower photos!)and strolled past the lovely Swan Lake, through the Bromeliad and Orchid Gardens in a light drizzle, and stumbled over a Bonsai collection.

We also, of course, made the required pilgrimage to the Long Bar at Raffles Hotel, where we sat under the palm fan, threw peanut shells on the floor, enjoyed a Singapore Sling, and tried not to tremble at the prices.
From Raffles 2011-10-06
Raffles has been an expat hangout for decades, but it was a surprise to find it well inland from the river facing a towering Raffles commercial center (many, many, many things in Singapore bear the Raffles moniker.)

This past weekend we have spent down on Roberston Quay at a bar called Boomarang (sic) which seems to have been the ONLY place in Singapore broadcasting the World Cup Rugby semi-finals. Every non-American ex-pat in town was there (the American team did not make the semi-finals....not that many Americans even noticed that they made the playoffs!) Since our current cruiser pack includes Greg (a Kiwi currently based in Australia) and Taffy (a Welch South African), all four matches required our attendance. By George, I think we are starting to understand the game! Boomarang had all their tables reserved out which meant a lot of standing, but both days we were befriended by locals who lets us squeezed into their area and several of us actually onto chairs!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Today is laundry and packing up, but also moving the boat, first to the fuel dock and thence to another slip. Seems the owner of this one came back unannounced month early and wants his slip back. Chrissie and Michael flew back to Mooloolaba on Saturday, giving Michael a day to rest up for school(...and to finish his journal!) This afternoon we are off back downtown to see if we can score Don a Harley Singapore shirt. I am amused that it is the male half of the team that is taking us to Singapore's famed Orchard Street Shopping strip!

Our flight goes out early Wednesday morning, 12:55 AM! Our route home is via Shanghai and NYC, and takes us, I presume, "over the top". I can't get my mind around whether it will be light the whole way or what!? We land back in Tampa, after 36 hours traveling time, still on Wednesday, at 10:20pm!

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